Post by cloran on Feb 21, 2011 0:37:29 GMT -5
I really like the idea of the Tour Striker, but I also realize the importance of keeping your gear consistent. I contacted Martin Chuck to find out if the Tour Striker could be bent 5* flat, but being a cast club he said it would be impossible. There's not much benefit to practicing with a club that's too upright/light/long, etc... So I decided to make my own.
Here's my step-by-step guide to building your own "Tour Striker" practice golf club.
You'll need the following:
-Cavity back forged iron
-Dremel (or some other tool for grinding)
-Swing weight scale
-Lead weights
-Torch
Why a forged cavity back iron? You'll be removing a good amount of weight from the grinding and it will need to be replaced in order to bring the swing weight back up. You'll see in a minute why the cavity helps with this.
I dug through the demo bin at a local golf shop and found a Cleveland TA3 6 iron for $9.00
Having a forged iron affords you the ability to bend the lie angle to match your current set. I dropped this head by 5*. I then pulled the grip, added 4 extra wraps of tape and installed a new GP Tour Wrap grip... now the club matches the 6 iron I have in my bag.
I took note of the starting swing weight:
I then removed the badge from the back of the cavity...
You'll end up with a bunch of glue left over...
Simply take a strait edge to it and it comes off like a big ball of snot.
Next, I used a sharpie to make some general guidelines
I started grinding by using a carbide grinding stone attachment on my Dremel
I then moved up to an Aluminum Oxide Grinding wheel for a better edging
After getting a rough grinding with the stone, and some more detailed edging with the grinding wheel, I did most of the removal with a 60 grit sandpaper wheel.
Once I had all the steel removed I again checked the swing weight.
I needed to bring the swing weight back up by at least 12 points. This is why I chose a cavity back design. I can add the weight to the cavity as opposed to removing the shaft to add tip weights or pouring powder down the shaft. Lead tape would be OK if I needed to add a few grams... but an increase of 12 swing weight points is really not practical for lead tape.
I could use powder, melt it, and epoxy it to the cavity:
or I could melt lead weights and epoxy the new form into the cavity:
I tried the powder first, but there are too many impurities and extra garbage in it. It doesn't melt well at all. I scrapped that idea and melted the weights instead.
The swing weight was now set at D2, the lie angle was dropped to fit the specs of my gamer 6 iron, and the grip was built up to my liking.
All that was left was to clean up some of the dings and scratches from the grinding by using a Dremel polishing wheel... and take the final pics.
This was as fun little project. If my Dremel battery didn't keep dying I'd guess that it would take just a couple of hours to complete. I picked up the lumber today to build my new work bench and I plan on doing more golf inspired projects in the future. I have a mill on the way as well...
If you guys like this kind of thread just say so and I'll make sure to take pics of my next few projects.
Thanks.
-Cloran
Here's my step-by-step guide to building your own "Tour Striker" practice golf club.
You'll need the following:
-Cavity back forged iron
-Dremel (or some other tool for grinding)
-Swing weight scale
-Lead weights
-Torch
Why a forged cavity back iron? You'll be removing a good amount of weight from the grinding and it will need to be replaced in order to bring the swing weight back up. You'll see in a minute why the cavity helps with this.
I dug through the demo bin at a local golf shop and found a Cleveland TA3 6 iron for $9.00
Having a forged iron affords you the ability to bend the lie angle to match your current set. I dropped this head by 5*. I then pulled the grip, added 4 extra wraps of tape and installed a new GP Tour Wrap grip... now the club matches the 6 iron I have in my bag.
I took note of the starting swing weight:
I then removed the badge from the back of the cavity...
You'll end up with a bunch of glue left over...
Simply take a strait edge to it and it comes off like a big ball of snot.
Next, I used a sharpie to make some general guidelines
I started grinding by using a carbide grinding stone attachment on my Dremel
I then moved up to an Aluminum Oxide Grinding wheel for a better edging
After getting a rough grinding with the stone, and some more detailed edging with the grinding wheel, I did most of the removal with a 60 grit sandpaper wheel.
Once I had all the steel removed I again checked the swing weight.
I needed to bring the swing weight back up by at least 12 points. This is why I chose a cavity back design. I can add the weight to the cavity as opposed to removing the shaft to add tip weights or pouring powder down the shaft. Lead tape would be OK if I needed to add a few grams... but an increase of 12 swing weight points is really not practical for lead tape.
I could use powder, melt it, and epoxy it to the cavity:
or I could melt lead weights and epoxy the new form into the cavity:
I tried the powder first, but there are too many impurities and extra garbage in it. It doesn't melt well at all. I scrapped that idea and melted the weights instead.
The swing weight was now set at D2, the lie angle was dropped to fit the specs of my gamer 6 iron, and the grip was built up to my liking.
All that was left was to clean up some of the dings and scratches from the grinding by using a Dremel polishing wheel... and take the final pics.
This was as fun little project. If my Dremel battery didn't keep dying I'd guess that it would take just a couple of hours to complete. I picked up the lumber today to build my new work bench and I plan on doing more golf inspired projects in the future. I have a mill on the way as well...
If you guys like this kind of thread just say so and I'll make sure to take pics of my next few projects.
Thanks.
-Cloran