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Post by cloran on Dec 31, 2010 16:23:20 GMT -5
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Post by Richie3Jack on Jan 1, 2011 13:47:08 GMT -5
This is from the same seller who had that gigantic Hogan irons collection that I made a blog post about. Now they are trying to sell the iron sets separately.
What's weird is I've swung the '72 Apex's. And I own a set of their Bounce Sole 1+'s that they have for sale.
Both those irons look very different in design than the irons I've seen and the Bounce Soles I own.
3JACK
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Post by cloran on Jan 1, 2011 14:19:46 GMT -5
Yeah, this guys got a set of "saber" irons that say "Precision" where the "Saber" should be, lol.
I'm thinking they were made for the Canadian market. There's no mention of Slazenger or anything else on the clubs... very interesting stuff.
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Post by cloran on Jan 6, 2011 8:01:09 GMT -5
I've been watching the auctions from this sellers "portfolio." I sent him a PM and made an offer on one of the '58 Saber sets. Here was the reply:
"Thanks for your offer. If they do not sell, eventually I will lower the start price on the auction. I have $30,000 invested into this collection and will be lucky to get $10,000. It's a bad time to sell. Rod"
I feel for him. I always buy high and sell low, lol. He may be the original owner, and if that's the case then it is what it is... But if he purchased the lot from someone else for $30K thinking he had a goldmine that's a different story. He's at least $50 too high on his starting bid prices. You've got to know the market.
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Post by Richie3Jack on Jan 6, 2011 9:19:24 GMT -5
I agree.
Part of the problem is that today's OEM's are making their product cycles shorter and still manufacturing the older models, but at very affordable prices. So if you're looking for clubs, you have the option of getting brand new, slightly older model irons for $500 or so or your can go on ebay and find used irons from long ago. The only way the used irons on ebay are viable is if they are priced well lower than those new, slightly older models that you can get relatively cheap.
3JACK
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Post by gmbtempe on Jan 6, 2011 10:56:56 GMT -5
I agree. Part of the problem is that today's OEM's are making their product cycles shorter and still manufacturing the older models, but at very affordable prices. So if you're looking for clubs, you have the option of getting brand new, slightly older model irons for $500 or so or your can go on ebay and find used irons from long ago. The only way the used irons on ebay are viable is if they are priced well lower than those new, slightly older models that you can get relatively cheap. 3JACK Thats why I have a certain comfort level with Mizuno as it seems like a new model does not come out once a year. Taylor Made is the worst as they are now on a 2 cycle per year with their Drivers. Ping is getting suspiciously bad as well. |
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ioz
'88 Apex Redlines
Posts: 195
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Post by ioz on Jan 6, 2011 11:10:44 GMT -5
Rich, aren't those the PC5's with the frosted backs that you were trying to find? A bit pricey, but in very good condition.
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Post by Richie3Jack on Jan 6, 2011 13:46:31 GMT -5
ioz - i think those are the '66 PC5's, which have a 3" hosel. I'm looking for the 2.5" hosels. It's not really the hosel length that bothers me, they are just a very different designed grind. I'm going to e-mail the guy to see if he can measure them. Even still...all I really need is the 3-iron. I wouldn't object to buying the entire set, but about $180 for the clubs and shipping...I don't need it that bad.
3JACK
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ioz
'88 Apex Redlines
Posts: 195
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Post by ioz on Jan 7, 2011 5:32:45 GMT -5
Those don't look like the ones I have. Mine don't have the frosted back look and do have a 3" hosel. But even if they are the ones you're after they are kinda expensive.
On a different note:
I heard that sawing (or grinding) off a piece of the top of the hosel changes the feel at impact a lot. The less surface contact between shaft and hosel, the softer impact will feel.
So, besides the differences in grind, you mentioned that you preferred the 'feel' of the 67 pc5's over the older model with the longer hosel. It could well be that this change in feel is caused also by differences in hosel length... In which case you could experiment with this...
Just a thought.
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Post by Richie3Jack on Jan 7, 2011 8:51:53 GMT -5
ioz - interesting.
I've only hit the 3-iron from the 3" hosel because those 3" hosel irons that I have do not have ferrules and the grips are worn down. The 3 irons doesn't feel bad at all, but something about the 2.5" hosels that are really nice.
I'm debating about getting these re-done thru the Iron Factory or not. The good news is that my irons are not that worn and the Iron Factory would just make them look brand new.
The bad news is that I'd want to be able to play in *some* competitive rounds of golf with these irons at the very least. My concern is losing too much distance with these irons. Obviosuly, distance isn't a priority with irons, but when you can hit another set nearly as well, but 15-20 yards longer, it's hard to not prefer that set.
I think the lesser distance is probably due to a few factors:
1. Length of the shaft. My 5-iron in the 2.5" hosels measures in at 37.5". I find that I play much better with a 38" 5-iron shaft.
2. Type of shaft. The shaft in my 2.5" hosels is an old True Temper Hogan shaft, before TT came out with Dynamic Gold. I get the feeling that those old True Temper shafts were not the most advanced piece of technology ever.
3. The lofts. I think these lofts are anywhere from 2-5* weaker than your standard lofts on a standard set of blades.
The issue with #3 is that these irons do not have a bounce angle. So if you cut down the loft, then you'll have a negative bounce angle.
I think one could probably do some grinding work and get back a bounce angle. I also think that a negative bounce angle wouldn't be a big issue in blugrass courses up in the northern states. But in Florida, with it's thick bermuda grass, it's really easy to stick one into the ground.
I've got an extra 5-iron head of the 2.5" hosels on me. I hope to do some experimentation with it this year. Trying different shafts and messing with the lofts a bit.
I plan on putting a steel 38" shaft in there first and seeing how it performs. If there's still a loss of distance, then I may toy with a different shaft or change the loft. If there's no major loss of distance, then there's no need to toy with the loft.
I'm probably more concerned with the negative bounce angle on the shorter irons. So that may require some grinding of the sole.
3JACK
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Post by cloran on Jan 7, 2011 9:55:04 GMT -5
With the 1/2" shorter shafts and 2*-5* weaker lofts you can just pick up a metal stamping kit, stamp a bunch of "X's" over the number on the bottom, and restamp with the next irons number. *POOF* Magically turns an old 5i into a modern 6i...
You may even pick up an extra 1* of loft compared to today's clubs, lol...
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