|
|
Post by pavaveda on Jan 19, 2010 20:44:20 GMT -5
I got a new Mizuno F-60 5w (stock exsar stiff shaft) and F-60 3w (stock fujikura stiff) for Christmas, and I took them to the range for the first time this weekend.
I worked my way up, starting with the sand wedge, through my set for a good 20 minutes to half an hour of hitting balls before I started hitting the 5w. I was on a mat at an short indoor range, but was hitting this thing really great. Felt awesome. Felt like I could actually aim at targets with it and get close 3 out of 5 times.
Then I switched to the 3 wood. Completely different. I was slicing, shanking, 2-feet off the ground, etc. Only a couple of good shots when I felt like I really laid off of it. Mainly, I was feeling like I was coming into impact with the face very open on most shots.
When I got home, I compared the mat marks on the bottom of the two clubs. The 5w's marks were nice and straight from front to back, but the 3w's ran diagonally from in to out.
What could cause this difference, and what can I do about it? I was feeling a bit tired swinging the 3w since I'd really been hitting a lot of balls quickly since this range charges by the minute. Could that have been it? I know it may be hard to say without seeing my swing, and if that is what it comes down to, I'll get some video. Should I have a fitting done?
FWIW, I'm still in my first year playing.
Thanks in advance, and thanks Rich for the forums!
|
|
|
|
Post by Richie3Jack on Jan 19, 2010 22:47:49 GMT -5
Manzella talked about a student he had that was swinging too far out to the right and one of the things he said was typical of golfers that do that was they had a hard time hitting a 3-wood.
That's something that has been difficult for me as well. I'm making steps to stop swinging so far out to the right and one of the things I've noticed is I'm noticeably better with 3-wood and my 3-hyrbrid. Night and day difference.
The key is you need to pivot on the downswing and move the plane line to the left using the pivot instead of using the hands and arms. One of the things I struggle with is that I don't pivot with the shoulders enough and get the clubhead to the ball by using my arms and hands instead of the pivoting shoulders.
3JACK
|
|
|
|
Post by pavaveda on Jan 20, 2010 22:46:23 GMT -5
OK. Thanks for the suggestions Rich. Since I can't really tell what it is that I'm doing, I'll get some video shot as soon as I can and get it up for you guys to analyze.
I think I'm still a bit confused about TGM's down & out (which I think has helped my iron shots a lot) and swinging left. The former seems like an "educated hands" concept while the latter is more of a body (Zone 1, [haha, I'm such a TGM newb!]) concept. Not sure yet how to both at the same time.
|
|
|
|
Post by gmbtempe on Jan 20, 2010 23:31:44 GMT -5
The key is you need to pivot on the downswing and move the plane line to the left using the pivot instead of using the hands and arms. One of the things I struggle with is that I don't pivot with the shoulders enough and get the clubhead to the ball by using my arms and hands instead of the pivoting shoulders. 3JACK Richie, To expound on this...there are some Ben Doyle videos over at LBG that show him teaching moving into impact position not to flip and he says "hands aim but pivot hits" or some thing close to that and when he demonstrates he shows a clear kinetic hips snap into impact. I think say a video of Elkington with Doyles illusion mat and he was making that same snapping action in his practice impact move, shows really well at 1:50 or so. It was these two videos that made me see the light on what my hips were doing wrong. I have no clue if this is the concept you are talking about but thought I would share, here are the videos. www.lynnblakegolf.com/index.php/View-Video/78/Student-1-Part-1.html |
|
|
|
Post by kevcarter on Jan 21, 2010 11:35:08 GMT -5
I agree with the swing thoughts the others have mentioned. I also think the trend towards lower spinning shafts has an effect. I think to hit a 3 wood up in the air from a tight lie, like you experience on the mats, you better be able to create a little spin and the latest and greatest shafts aren't helping in the 3 wood.
You might consider popping something with a little more launch and spin into that puppy. Maybe something like a red board or YS-6 or something along those lines.
Kevin
|
|
|
|
Post by gmbtempe on Jan 21, 2010 12:13:34 GMT -5
The next three wood I launch way up into the air, on a solid strike that is, will be the first.
|
|
|
|
Post by fearlessgolfer on Jan 22, 2010 17:54:38 GMT -5
I agree with the swing thoughts the others have mentioned. I also think the trend towards lower spinning shafts has an effect. I think to hit a 3 wood up in the air from a tight lie, like you experience on the mats, you better be able to create a little spin and the latest and greatest shafts aren't helping in the 3 wood. You might consider popping something with a little more launch and spin into that puppy. Maybe something like a red board or YS-6 or something along those lines. Kevin Kevin, I agree with your assessment. Also, by trading, fiddling, learning,changing lies, asking questions to the club-fitters(drove 2.5hrs once to get my Mizuno lie n loft checked), I've got to learn about them as well as shafts too. Pavaveda, since you are first year player and did say your 3wd had that across-wipe at the bottom of your club, which meant open face/cut path(?), I suggest you try 4wd. A friend of mine who played mini-tour and qualified for US Open at Bathpage Black hit his 4wd farther, higher, straighter than his 3wd. He said most club-fitter would agree that most will hit their 4wd better, straighter and longer. At least until you can hit every club flush. How is your driver? fearlessgolfer |
|
|
|
Post by pavaveda on Jan 27, 2010 11:52:56 GMT -5
Pavaveda, since you are first year player and did say your 3wd had that across-wipe at the bottom of your club, which meant open face/cut path(?), I suggest you try 4wd. A friend of mine who played mini-tour and qualified for US Open at Bathpage Black hit his 4wd farther, higher, straighter than his 3wd. He said most club-fitter would agree that most will hit their 4wd better, straighter and longer. At least until you can hit every club flush. How is your driver? fearlessgolfer I've read, in GolfDigest I think, that a 4w, 7w, 3h, 4h combo can be a much better club choice for the majority of non-expert players. I may do that in the future. I posted some video here of me hitting the 5w, 3w and driver. Was starting to hit the 3w a bit better this weekend while thinking about "swinging left" and keeping a FLW. Still hit quite a few slices with it though. Same with the driver. I think this has a lot to do with my tendency to get OOT. |
|
jerryg
'88 Apex Redlines
Posts: 100
|
Post by jerryg on Feb 4, 2010 13:40:38 GMT -5
One day at a lesson with Kev Carter, he said an old dufus like me might benefit from using a 4-wood. I found one in the dungeon and it replaced the 3 wood I couldn't hit (I would have been better off with a divining rod). The 4-wood worked great through the fall.
Kev has now helped me so much with my swing that I can hit the 3 wood like a hammer from mats in the dome.
Decisons, decisions....
|
|
|
|
Post by kevcarter on Feb 4, 2010 14:06:36 GMT -5
Thanks Jerry, you're the best!
Kevin
|
|
jerryg
'88 Apex Redlines
Posts: 100
|
Post by jerryg on Feb 4, 2010 16:22:45 GMT -5
Wait til you see it in action Monday at the dome.
|
|
jerryg
'88 Apex Redlines
Posts: 100
|
Post by jerryg on Feb 17, 2010 19:58:19 GMT -5
As for the original query in this thread originally posted by Pavaveda, I'm wondering if by chance the club might be a little on the longish side. Would that present that type of problem?
|
|
