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Post by kevcarter on Feb 2, 2010 13:14:12 GMT -5
Thanks Jeff!
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Post by pavaveda on Feb 2, 2010 22:38:49 GMT -5
Thanks for all the help.
I've updated the list to include the #3PA in component #4.
For this version, I've bolded components that don't match the Swinging Basic Pattern (12-2-0).
Pavaveda TGM Self-Analysis 2/1/10
No./Component/Des./Variations/Comments 1. Grip–Basic - D - Interlocking (A-Overlap) 2. Grip–Type - B - Strong Single Action - not positive 3. Stroke–Basic - A - Punch (B-Pitch) 4. Stroke–Variation - D - Four Barrel (1/2/3/4) (C-Triple (2/3/4)) 5. Plane Line -A - Square-Square 6. Plane Angle–Basic - B - Turned Shoulder 7. Plane Angle–Variation - B - Single Shift (A-Zero) 8. Fix - A - Standard 9. Address - A - Standard 10. Hinge Action - D - Dual Horizontal 11. Pressure Point Combination - C-4 - Triple (2/3/4) 12. Pivot - A - Standard 13. Shoulder Turn - C - Rotated 14. Hip Turn - A - Standard - Bordering on C (Shiftless) oftentimes (B-Slide) 15. Hip Action - B - Delayed 16. Knee Action - A - Standard (C-Right Anchor) 17. Foot Action - C - Flat Left 18. Wrist Action - A - Standard 19. Lag Loading - C - Drag - poorly 20. Trigger Type - C - Shoulder Turn Throw (E-Wrist Throw) 21. Power Package Assembly Point - D - Downstroke Top (C-End) 22. Power Package Loading Action - A - Full-Sweep (B-Random Sweep) 23. Power Package Delivery Path - E - Circle (C-Top Arc and Straight Line) 24. Power Package Release - D - Non-Automatic Snap Release (E-Auto Snap)
My guess is that, of those differing components are the biggest offenders: 3, 4, 14, 20, 23, and 24.
Chapter 13 specifically states that 10-23-C (shiftless hip turn) is incompatible with 10-14-C (top arc & straight line power power package delivery path). Component 7, with a standard of a Zero shift plane line, was a surprise for me. I'm wondering how compatible a single-shift is with swinging.
It's probably a good time to stop and mention that I'm a strong believer in the two equal, but separate, practices of technique and performance. There's absolutely nothing wrong with doing the analysis, breaking down the components, working on the pieces, as long as it is clear that when it's time to perform, you have to be a united, cohesive unit.
Back to the books!
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Post by pavaveda on May 17, 2010 20:57:04 GMT -5
Do you guys always grip the club the same for your longer shots (drives, etc.)? I've been thinking about this since my last couple of rounds where I'm really struggling with consistency. One of the things I noticed is that I'm varying my grip from tee to tee, constantly searching. I'm trying all kinds of things: moving to an impact fix position and rotating the club in my hands until the face is square with my target line; forgetting to do that; gripping it so it feels natural then strengthening slightly; and who knows what else. So, I started to think that I need to start getting more consistent with how I'm taking my grip.
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Post by cloran on May 17, 2010 21:33:24 GMT -5
I think a consistent grip is more important than a "standard" or "perfect" grip. IMHO, certain grips will only work well with certain swing patterns... but once you find one that works stick with it for everything. I weakened my left hand in order to get Module 1 working better and found that it just works for me. I've changed my setup, back swing, impact alignment, and follow through... but not the grip since Lag had me adjust it a bit during M1.
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Post by pavaveda on May 17, 2010 22:42:28 GMT -5
So, when you take your grip, how are you doing it and verifying to yourself that you've done it correctly? What are you using for reference (e.g. lines on the grip, club face, "V"'s pointing somewhere, etc.)?
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Post by cloran on May 18, 2010 7:56:03 GMT -5
I'll feel for the pressure points in my fingers. Last three fingers on my left hand, middle and ring finger on the right. I check to see and feel that my right index finger is in a "trigger" position on the aft side of the grip. I also look to see where the "Vs" are pointing. With my grip they both point to a spot around my right ear.
Where my grip has been lacking is with the right hand V. I tend to get my left thumb on the front side of the grip which leaves a space between my thumb and fore finger... making the "V" look more like a "U"... I constantly have to monitor that. I don't think it's a HUGE issue, but an issue none the less.
When all these things are good my grip is good. On the course I just feel for it, at the range I monitor it more.
When addressing the ball I pick a spot a few feet in front of the ball (on my target line) to line up with. I walk in with the club in my left hand. I place the club down and square the face to my target spot. I only look at the actual target once... maybe twice if I lose focus. Other than that I only look at the spot (divot, broken tee, blade of grass, etc) in front of my ball. I grip the club with my left hand making sure the face stays square to my spot, then grip with the right hand... square my body to the target line (if I'm trying for a straight shot), and go.
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Post by pavaveda on May 18, 2010 9:26:00 GMT -5
Thanks cloran for explaining in more detail. I know a lot of this might seem like common sense, but I think I'm still discovering/learning the price of ignoring the fundamentals.
Are you using ribbed/reminder grips? If so, where are you putting the rib in relation to your left-hand pinky finger?
And does anyone know why ribbed grips don't seem to be as popular with modern clubs as they were with classic clubs?
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Post by cloran on May 18, 2010 10:12:45 GMT -5
It's not common sense at all so don't worry. The grip is very individual and I have not problem talking about what I work on... the only "fundamental" I find with the grip is that you actually have to grip the club somehow, lol. I watched a video the other day of a golfer that has no arms. He grips the club with his neck/head pinched to his shoulder. He can break 90... no crap.
Not sure why ribbed grips aren't as common these days, probably cheaper to manufacturer the round ones. I have used both. I currently use the Tacki-Mac Itomic grips, and they aren't ribbed... but if they had a ribbed version of them I would certainly use the ribbed instead.
When I use ribbed grips I put the rib at 6 o'clock on the club and grip it in my left hand with the rib resting along the joint where my pinky finger meets the palm of my hand. That's the main pressure point and the only one I focus on when taking the grip in my left hand. Once the rib is in place I take my normal grip, make sure my right hand pointer finger is in a trigger postion, the V's are both pointing to my right ear, and that my right hand V is actually a V and not a U...
I just sold my set of G40s with the homemade ribbed grips (I started that thread over at abs.com... ended up really nice actually. The grips firmed up over time.) A few weeks ago I was playing with someone I didn't know. We met on the 1st tee and by the 6th hole he asked to try my 6i. First reaction: "Wow, these are flat!" Second reaction: "What kind of grips are these? It's like they were made for my hands... do you want to sell these to me?"
SOLD.
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Post by pavaveda on May 18, 2010 13:06:59 GMT -5
Thanks again cloran... Interesting that you put the rib in the void between your hand and finger. I've been putting it the next joint up the finger most of the time. If I put it at the base joint, then my lefthand thumb tends to be more on top of the club instead of on the aft side. Plus I slice it more when I have it in the base joint. I've got my eye on the Golf Pride new decade multi compound grips because they have cording under the left hand and that seems to be where my grip slips the most when it does slip. I tend to have sweaty hands and my glove even gets damp during the round from sweat. I have to remind myself to take it off when I putt to let it air out a little. Hard to do when you're always the one "practicing" short game around the green while others are waiting for you!
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Post by cloran on May 18, 2010 14:07:05 GMT -5
I weakened my left hand and that really put the rib that extra knuckle down towards my palm. But you're correct, if you're fighting a slice a stronger left hand will help.
Try one of the Itomic grips from Tacki-Mac. They are cheap ($3.50 or so per grip) so if you don't like it you won't be wasting alot of money. I too have sweaty hands when playing. These grips are by far the tackiest grips I've ever used, but they seem to be pretty durable as well. The wetter my hands get, the tackier the grip gets... seriously. They are just like the Iomic grips, but about $15.00 cheaper per grip, can't beat that.
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Post by slice_oftheday on May 18, 2010 16:28:29 GMT -5
I may have to try these Tackimac grips cloran, my hands sweat so much that I have skin peeling problems, and even have to wear a glove playing tennis a la Cliff Drysdale
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Post by pavaveda on Aug 6, 2010 12:58:50 GMT -5
Well, my driver woes continue...
I couldn't hit a draw with a driver if my life depended on it, much less straight. Everything fades. If I aim straight, it's going to start straight-ish, and then slice. If I aim left, it's a low fade.
Most shots are starting pretty straight and then cutting, so I would think that would mean that my path is too far left. But I can't seem to get my path to the right. If I try to hit the inside quadrant of the ball, I shank it off the hosel almost every time.
Ball position is inline with my left heel. If I move it back to try to catch it earlier in the arc, I tend to sky it--not pretty.
I was at the range last night working on it, and it seems that if I put in a lot of twistaway and try to go straight back and straight through, it goes a bit straighter or straight-left, but there's NO power/length. I can hit my 3i or 5w further.
The real issue is that I'm afraid to actually play golf with my driver shots like this. I don't want to hit 5w or 3i off every tee. Last time I tried to play, I was by myself at the first tee and I tried a few drives: the first two went OB right, and the 3rd shanked off the inside heel. So I stuck with 3i/5w off the tee the rest of the round. At one point, an older guy played-through and he stood up there on the tee and boomed a whippy driver down the fairway 260-270. He had a wedge into the green. I pulled a 3-iron into the trees about 180, sliced another 3 iron well right of the green, had to punch toward the green under a tree, went through the green, had to chip on and 2 putted. Not fun.
I guess I just feel that I would have much better chance and more fun if I could hit a driver straight 250 or so down the fairway on a semi-regular basis.
I'll try to get some video soon, but it's been tough with the ranges so busy and cramped.
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Post by bentshaft on Aug 6, 2010 14:38:51 GMT -5
You are going to hate the pic I will be posting here in about 4 or 5 hours!!!
Cheer up---we all suck!!
bent bob
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Post by bentshaft on Aug 6, 2010 22:34:43 GMT -5
Hey Buddy When you said this- I'll try to get some video soon, but it's been tough with the ranges so busy and cramped.I just said to myself---i'm glad I live in the middle of nowhere...It was mildly hot today, maybe 95 ish...no big deal... My golfing buddy (Tom) and I call our little corner at the end of the range "Hogan's Corner"... We love hitting balls by ourselves and not being bothered. I have this almost EVERYDAY.... Attachments:
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Post by pavaveda on Aug 6, 2010 22:51:41 GMT -5
HA! That looks like paradise to me right now. I don't even want to know how much a large bucket of balls costs you. For me, it's 1/2 hr. in traffic, $4 to park, $13 for less than 100 balls, off mats. If I don't go there, it's 40 min. drive out to the western 'burbs where it's $15 for 120 balls on chewed up grass. (Mostly mud. Which, surprisingly, I hit better off of than grass! haha)
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